If your oven runs hot or cold, do three things before you spend a dollar on a part. Check the oven’s actual temperature against a thermometer you trust. Test the sensor’s resistance with a multimeter. Then adjust the offset if the numbers say you can.

Put an oven thermometer on the middle rack, set the oven to a round number like 350°F, let it settle, and read it. If your thermometer disagrees with the display by a wide margin, you need to know by how much before you touch anything else, because that number decides everything that follows.

Next, test the sensor itself. Before you take anything apart, unplug the range or switch off its breaker. Then you can check the sensor’s resistance with a multimeter set to ohms: you’re asking one question, does the sensor read close to where it should at room temperature. Most GE, LG, Whirlpool and Samsung sensors read in a tight band around 1,050 to 1,100 ohms at room temperature (brand figures below). A reading far outside that band, or no reading at all, points at a failed sensor. A reading inside that band means the sensor is probably fine, and the problem is somewhere else.

Finally, if the thermometer and the display disagree by a small amount, your oven likely has a calibration or offset setting in its control menu that shifts the displayed temperature up or down to match reality. It won’t fix a sensor or thermostat that’s actually failed, and nothing here promises it will solve your problem, but it’s the first thing to try and it costs nothing.

A worked example: in spec, and still wrong

One technician thread covers an oven, model RGB746WEH2WW, running about 25 degrees cool. The owner had already replaced the control board, with no change. When the sensor was tested, it read 1,090 ohms, square in the normal range. The fix the technician walked through was to verify the thermometer reading first, then check the sensor, then adjust the offset. No part needed to be bought at all.

That’s the order worth following: thermometer, then ohms, then offset. It’s also the order that stops you from buying a board, then a sensor, then another sensor, while the actual problem stays uncorrected.

How far off is too far to just recalibrate

Sears PartsDirect’s calibration guide puts a line on this: most ovens can be recalibrated by about 35 degrees in either direction. Past that, you’re not looking at a setting, you’re looking at a failed part, and it could be the sensor or the thermostat.

A technician answering a case where an oven ran 50 degrees hot put it bluntly: “First, you cannot adjust the oven this much. If the oven is off by more than 35 degrees, then there is likely a faulty part.” A 50-degree error is not a calibration problem. An error inside roughly 35 degrees is worth trying to dial out with the offset setting before you buy anything.

No source here gives a rate for how often the offset adjustment turns out to be the whole fix, so none is given. Try it, see if it holds over a few bakes, and move to testing the sensor if it doesn’t.

What the sensor should read, by brand

Each of these figures comes from the sensor’s own listing or Q&A page, and applies to that brand’s part only. No single table covers every oven, and no official manufacturer table could be found at all: the resistance table that circulates for this repair exists only as a forum image, not as a published specification from any manufacturer.

At room temperature:

  • GE sensor (WB21X5301): 1,080 to 1,090 ohms.
  • Whirlpool sensor (12001656): 1,050 to 1,100 ohms.
  • LG sensor (EBG61305805): 1,080 to 1,100 ohms, with a slope of 2 ohms per degree Fahrenheit confirmed on its AppliancePartsPros Q&A page.
  • Samsung sensor (DG32-00002B): 1,090 to 1,100 ohms, with the same 2-ohm-per-degree slope confirmed on its own Q&A page.

No resistance figure could be found for the Frigidaire sensor (316490000) or for the Whirlpool-family WPW10131825.

The RTD-versus-thermistor claim doesn’t hold up

It’s written in a few places that GE, Whirlpool and Frigidaire ovens use RTD sensors (a type of probe whose resistance rises in a steady, known way with temperature) while LG and Samsung use thermistors that follow a different curve. The readings above contradict that. LG’s and Samsung’s sensors read in the same band as GE’s and Whirlpool’s, and follow the same 2-ohms-per-degree slope.

Part of the confusion is that LG’s own part is catalogued as “Thermistor PTC”. But PartSelect’s LG listing also cites the DIN platinum RTD standard, a European specification (DIN) for platinum resistance probes, commonly built around a sensor called a PT1000 that reads 1,000 ohms at freezing. A platinum RTD built this way is itself a kind of PTC device, meaning its resistance rises with temperature. The naming on the listing and the underlying technology aren’t in conflict once you know that.

Why the parts still aren’t interchangeable

Even though the brands’ sensors behave the same electrically, you can’t swap a GE sensor into an LG oven or the reverse. The difference is mechanical: probe length, the mounting bracket, the connector, and the pigtail (the short length of wire with the connector on the end) are all brand-specific. A sensor that reads the right resistance on your bench still won’t fit if the bracket doesn’t match your oven’s cavity.

A cross-reference to avoid

You’ll sometimes see the GE sensor (WB21X5301) listed as “supersedes AP4009009”, implying it replaces a Whirlpool part. It doesn’t. AP4009009 is simply AppliancePartsPros’ own stock number for the Whirlpool sensor (12001656), not a GE number at all. PartSelect’s 28-number supersession chain for the Whirlpool sensor contains no GE number, and the GE sensor’s own chain contains no Whirlpool number. These are two different sensors for two different appliance families. Don’t buy one on the strength of that pairing.

Finding the part that fits your oven

The sensors here are tied to brands, not to specific models. Before you order, match your oven’s full model number against the fitment list on the part’s own listing page.

  • GE, Kenmore and Hotpoint ovens: WB21X5301, priced around $147.53 as listed when checked.
  • Whirlpool, Maytag, Jenn-Air and Magic Chef ovens: 12001656, around $43.18.
  • Whirlpool and KitchenAid ovens: WPW10131825, around $72.00. This is a separate Whirlpool-family part from 12001656, and which models take which wasn’t something the research sorted out, so check your listing either way. The older number, W10131825, has been superseded; WPW10131825 is the current part.
  • LG ovens: EBG61305805, around $75. It replaces four older LG numbers: 6322B62214A, 6322B62214B, EBG61305801 and EBG61305804.
  • Samsung ovens: DG32-00002B.
  • Frigidaire ovens: 316490000, which replaces 1197392, 316490002, 316490003 and 7316490000. A separate part, 316490001, exists on its own listing page and is easy to confuse with this one, so check the full number carefully.

Don’t treat any one of these as fitting every oven from that brand. Confirm against your model number on the listing before you order.

What the reviews show

I went through about 35 reviews plus 15 technician question-and-answer threads, across listings that together represent 392 ratings, plus a separate set of AppliancePartsPros sensor listings carrying 536 ratings between them.

The clearest pattern: a sensor swap sometimes doesn’t fix anything. One PartSelect buyer of the Whirlpool sensor wrote, “Didn’t fix problem. The control pad is bad.” An LG buyer, leaving two stars, wrote, “The part is fine I think. It didn’t fix the problem. The oven still will not maintain temperature.” Another LG buyer, one star, had been told the part was “likely faulty”, bought it, and it didn’t fix the heating issue. Even after a successful swap, one buyer reported the oven was still running about 30 degrees hot, with no further cause given in that report.

On ratings specifically, AppliancePartsPros’ sensor listings show no one-star or two-star ratings across their 536 ratings. PartSelect’s listings do carry negative reviews and the failure reports above come from there. Read PartSelect’s reviews for a given sensor before you order, since that’s where the problems people actually hit tend to show up.

Reading fault codes correctly

F3 or F4 codes point at the sensor circuit. Test the sensor for a reading in the 1,080 to 1,100-ohm range (per the brand figures above); an open circuit or a wildly high reading means the sensor needs replacing. One LG customer measured 2,362 ohms and was correctly told to replace the part.

An F2 code that appears with the oven off points at the control board, not the sensor, since it’s logged while the unit isn’t even running. If your sensor tests in spec and the oven still runs wrong, that’s a calibration or control board question, not a reason to buy a second sensor.

FAQ

What should an oven temperature sensor read in ohms?

It depends on the brand: GE reads 1,080 to 1,090 ohms, Whirlpool 1,050 to 1,100, LG 1,080 to 1,100, and Samsung 1,090 to 1,100, all at room temperature. No official manufacturer table exists for any of them.

My oven is 50 degrees off. Can I just recalibrate it?

No. Most ovens only adjust about 35 degrees in either direction, so a 50-degree error points to a failed sensor or thermostat, not a setting.

How often is recalibrating the whole fix?

Unknown. No source in this research gives a rate for how often the offset adjustment alone resolves a temperature complaint.

Which old LG sensor numbers does EBG61305805 replace?

6322B62214A, 6322B62214B, EBG61305801, and EBG61305804.

How do I know which sensor fits my exact oven model?

These parts are tied to brands, not individual models, and the mechanical fit, probe length, bracket, connector, and pigtail, differs between them. Confirm your full model number against the listing before ordering.

Sources and Citations

Research checked 31 August 2026.